I think the only word that could describe today is "Gambian."

I began the day with no fixed plan. I hoped to get over to the women's garden at some point. After sitting around for about an hour this morning figuring out who was going where, Sarah and I ventured out under the watchful eye of Awa. We went to the garden first. I didn't know it was within walking distance! This makes my life so much better. Unfortunately, the man who is in charge of the garden (why is a man in charge of a women's garden?) wasn't there, so we couldn't do anything. Baboucar said he will talk to the man this evening, and hopefully he will arrange something for tomorrow. Sarah is doing her research on the Kaniling, so we headed to the compound of Nyara, the leader of the Bakau Kaniling group. Nyara is out of town for today but will return tomorrow. We set up a meeting for the morning.

Liza wanted us to go to the museum at Kachikali. When we got there, we discovered that there was an admission fee that we didn't want to pay, so we didn't go in. We were going to call the day a wash and head back to Happy Camp, but Awa invited us to lunch. It is very rude to turn down food, and I like to avoid offending people. Plus, the food at Awa's is always good, even if it's full of meat. People don't seem to mind that I eat much less than my fair share of the meat, as long as I smile and eat some rice.

On our way to Awa's, we ran into one of her many relatives, who said that his wife was sick. Obviously, she had to go visit his sick wife, and we went with her. She didn't seem that sick, but I didn't really ask. I don't think I would have even if she spoke more English. She insisted that we eat, so we did. She served us bahal. (I can't spell anything here. Whatever. Bahal is a rice dish with a dry paste of fish and beans. It's really good. Totally not vegan, but Gambian food almost never is.) Then she brewed us attaya, which was my Cup #1 of the day. Awa also had a fortune telled come see us while we were there. He used cowrie shells and charged 5 dalasi a person. Evidently, I'm going to live a long life and be happy, with only a few problems. I should also buy a can of milk, a loaf of bread, and three candles. This will bring me luck, I think. I'm not sure.

Finally, we went to Awa's compound, stopping only once on the way to look at baby stuff. We ate again, though I have forgotten the name of the dish. She gave us baobab ice for dessert, which is the most delicious thing ever and is accidentally vegan. Well, it doesn't have ingredients listed, but I think it's just frozen baobab juice with lots of sugar. I also had my Cup #2 and #3 of attaya. I'm so wired right now. I hope I don't develop a caffeine addiction. I never drink caffeinated things back home, and I don't want to start.

And then Sarah and I walked back to Happy Camp. A morning jaunt to the women's garden turned into a full day of following Awa. I think I spent about 20 dalasi today on taxis, but it evens out because I didn't have to spend a dime on food. Hopefully, I'll have more to say about the garden tomorrow. It was much bigger than I had expected. I would have called it a farm, but then it's not mine to name. I look forward to drawing water from the well and coming back to the States totally built. (I wish!)

Today has made me thankful for my easygoing disposition. I am slightly worried about getting back to the States and being overwhelmed by schedules. Here, schedules basically don't exist. Days simply happen. I am here only, and there is only peace.